The Core of Kusumoto's Fiber Art: A Proprietary Heat-Setting Process
Mariko Kusumoto is renowned for her ethereal, translucent fabric sculptures and wearable art that seem to float weightlessly, capturing the delicate forms of marine life and nature. The central element of her textile work is a secret, proprietary heat-setting technique she developed through years of experimentation. This method allows her to take commonplace synthetic materials, such as polyester and nylon, and give them a completely new, permanent identity as three-dimensional objects.
The process is deceptively simple in description but requires an artist's touch for its execution. First, she selects her fabric, drawn to its inherent characteristics—its sheen, its transparency, or its softness. She then wraps the chosen fabric around custom-made molds to create the desired shapes. These molds are then placed in an oven and heated to a precise temperature for a specific duration, usually about 20 minutes. After cooling, the fabric permanently holds its new, sculptural form. This ability to reshape the material allows for the creation of intricate ripples, honeycomb-like structures, and organic, biomorphic shapes. This technique is a crucial part of what technique does Mariko Kusumoto use to define her signature style.
The Japanese Art of Tsumami Zaiku
In addition to her innovative heat-setting, Kusumoto also incorporates the ancient Japanese art of tsumami zaiku into her creations. Developed during the Edo period (1603-1868), this technique involves using tweezers to fold small, square pieces of fabric into intricate shapes. While traditionally used for crafting decorative hair ornaments and flowers (kanzashi), Kusumoto applies tsumami zaiku to create the minute, delicate details that populate the interior of her larger fabric sculptures. These tiny folded elements, whether miniature flowers or other forms, add a layer of complexity and delicate artistry to her work, demonstrating a deep connection to Japanese tradition alongside her modern techniques.
Evolution from Metal to Fabric
For nearly two decades, Mariko Kusumoto was primarily known for her metalwork, creating surrealist-style dioramas, music boxes, and other complex, hand-crafted objects. This metalwork background, which involved techniques like etching and enameling, informed her meticulous approach to detail and construction. However, around 2013, she decided to explore a new medium—textiles—after an intense metal project left her craving something different. This shift allowed her to explore new themes of lightness, translucency, and fragility that were fundamentally opposed to the solidity of metal. The move was a transformative one, leading to the development of the heat-setting method that defines her current work.
Comparison of Kusumoto's Major Techniques
| Feature | Heat-Setting Synthetic Fibers | Tsumami Zaiku (Japanese Folding) | Metalwork (Past Work) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Material | Polyester, nylon, translucent fibers | Small square fabric pieces | Various metals, found objects |
| Primary Tool | Molds, oven, experimentation | Tweezers | Metal-smithing tools, files, hammers |
| Core Process | Reshaping and permanently setting fabric with heat | Folding small fabric squares with tweezers | Etching, enameling, casting, fabricating |
| Aesthetic Result | Ethereal, translucent, lightweight, sculptural forms | Intricate, delicate, flower-like details | Surrealist, detailed, durable, mechanical objects |
| Application | Large sculptures, wearable art, layered effects | Internal details, smaller components | Sculptural boxes, functional objects, dioramas |
| Characteristic | Captures movement and fragility; translucent quality | Adds fine, traditional decorative elements | Solid, intricate, and often whimsical construction |
The Artistic Process: Experimentation and Intuition
Beyond the specific methods, another critical aspect of what technique does Mariko Kusumoto use is her process of constant experimentation. She describes spending a significant portion of her time simply exploring the possibilities of her materials, allowing for intuitive discoveries and happy accidents. This playful, open-ended approach is what enables her to create such a wide range of fantastical and unique pieces. The lightness and transparency of her materials allow her to work with multiple layers, creating depth and an enigmatic, watery quality that evokes her fascination with marine life. This experimentation is a testament to her creative vitality, which is linked to the overall health benefits of engaging in artistic pursuits.
List of Steps for Kusumoto's Heat-Setting Process
- Material Selection: Choose the appropriate synthetic fabric, such as polyester or nylon, based on desired translucency and texture.
- Mold Creation: Design and craft unique molds that will provide the structure for the fabric.
- Fabric Wrapping: Carefully wrap the fabric around the chosen mold, smoothing it into place.
- Heat Application: Place the fabric-covered mold into an oven and apply a specific, controlled amount of heat for a set time.
- Cooling: Remove the mold from the heat and allow it to cool down completely.
- Unmolding: Gently remove the now-permanent fabric form from the mold.
- Assembly: Combine the resulting shapes with other elements, including smaller tsumami zaiku pieces, to create the final sculpture or wearable art.
Conclusion: A Blend of Tradition and Innovation
Ultimately, the question of what technique does Mariko Kusumoto use is answered by a compelling fusion of traditional Japanese craftsmanship and modern, proprietary innovation. By marrying the delicate precision of tsumami zaiku with her unique heat-setting process, Kusumoto creates pieces that are both timeless and contemporary. The ethereal quality of her fabric sculptures, capturing the mysterious beauty of the natural world, is a direct result of her technical mastery and her deep, experimental engagement with her chosen medium. This artistic pursuit, like any creative endeavor, serves as a powerful reminder of the connection between a healthy, inspired mind and the beautiful works it can produce.
Note: For further insight into the artist's work, explore her online portfolio at her official website.
