Understanding the Armscye Measurement
The armscye refers to the armhole of a garment. Measuring the distance from armscye-to-armscye across the back is vital for pattern making and alterations to ensure the garment's shoulder width fits your body. The key is taking a precise, straight measurement across the upper back between the top of each armhole opening.
The Correct Way to Measure Armscye-to-Armscye
For accuracy, this measurement is best taken with a partner across your back.
- Wear Fitted Clothing: Put on a fitted shirt or tank top with a clear armhole seam to guide measurement.
- Identify Shoulder Points: Locate the top of the armhole seam on both shoulders as your start and end points.
- Position the Tape: Have your partner place the tape at the top of one armhole seam and run it straight across your upper back to the top of the other armhole seam.
- Keep Tape Flat: Ensure the tape is taut but not tight, lying flat against your back and parallel to the floor. Avoid curving the tape over shoulder blades.
- Record Measurement: Note the distance in both inches and centimeters.
Avoiding Common Measurement Errors
- Measuring Alone: Measuring by yourself often results in inaccurate figures due to twisting and poor posture. Always have a partner assist you.
- Curving the Tape: Allowing the tape to dip in the middle of your back leads to a longer, incorrect measurement. Keep the tape perfectly straight and horizontal.
- Incorrect Start/End Points: Measure from the top of the armhole seam, not the outermost edge of the shoulder.
- Wearing Bulky Clothing: Thick clothes will skew results. Always wear a thin, close-fitting top for measurements close to your body.
Using an Existing Garment
A well-fitting garment can provide a reference measurement. Lay it flat and measure across the back from the top of one armhole seam to the other. This measurement will include some ease, so it might be slightly larger than your direct body measurement.
Comparing Measurement Methods
| Method | Best For | Accuracy | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Direct Back Measurement | Pattern-making, alterations | High | Requires a partner; most reliable. |
| Existing Garment | Quick reference, duplicating fit | Medium | Includes garment ease; accurate only if the garment fits well. |
| Diagonal Front Measurement | Less reliable, difficult | Low | Not the correct method. |
Adjusting for Different Garment Types
Different garments require varying amounts of 'ease' in the armscye-to-armscye measurement. Fitted garments need little ease, while outerwear requires more for layering. Stretch fabrics may even allow for negative ease. Always follow pattern instructions.
Tips for Accurate Measurements
Stand straight with relaxed shoulders. Take the measurement multiple times for consistency. Precision improves garment comfort and fit. Combined with other measurements, this creates a profile for custom fitting. For advanced techniques, consult a tailor or resources like the Sempstress measurement guide.
Conclusion
Learning how to measure armscye too armscye accurately is a key skill for sewing and garment fitting. Using the correct method with a partner and avoiding mistakes ensures precise measurements, leading to better-fitting and more comfortable clothes. The straight measurement across the back is crucial for achieving custom-tailored results.
